在PTT上面由RF大哥轉來的文(原作者為William)

非常棒的羽毛外套解析文,不由自主的轉來收藏摟^^


如何分辨羽絨衣的好壞?
作者 William   
2005/12/08, Thursday
天氣冷了,想到吃的很自然就會想到薑母鴨、羊肉爐,那麼穿的呢?大概會想到羽絨衣…市面上羽絨衣到處都有,從高價位至低價位,到底差在哪勒?以下教你幾個小方法來分辨不同處…

Western Mountaineering 說明先幫大家分清楚:

羽毛(Feather):中間有梗,是水鳥的羽毛,保暖效果較差。
羽絨(Down):絨球狀,中間無梗,是水鳥胸部部位用來保暖的羽絨。

 Feather 羽毛
 Down 羽絨

 

購買時:

1.先看膨脹係數(Fill Power):
Fill Power(簡寫成FP)是羽絨(Down)大小的單位,代表一盎司(約28g)的羽絨所能膨脹的體積以立方英寸來表示,數字愈高愈輕愈保暖,如800FP的羽絨代表一盎司的羽絨在自然膨脹後,體積最小在800立方英寸(cubic inch)。<感謝ptt戶外裝備版各版友的指正>

現在市面上最少都是使用600FP的羽絨來填充,並以25為一個單位來做級數,如600再上去就是625、650、675、700、725…最高到900FP,價格高昴。我最常舉的例子是:你可以把900FP的羽絨想成是10圓硬幣大小,600想成是5圓大小,1個900FP的羽絨保暖度相等於2個600FP加起來的效果。

這是羽絨衣的基本評量單位,讓我們可以知道內填的羽絨等級。

2.再摸隔間:
摸一摸、握一握,看有沒有像茶葉渣的感覺?如果有,就再考慮看看囉。因為好的羽絨衣摸起來軟棉棉的,不會有像摸到茶葉渣的感覺。

有這種感覺代表羽毛和羽絨比不正常,正常的比例應該是2:8,也就是羽毛佔20%,羽絨佔80%,因為羽絨需要羽毛的梗來幫助撐起隔間,以達最佳的膨鬆度。有些國產羽絨制品,為了減少成本,有的會以3:7或更惡劣使用4:6的比例,往往造成羽毛過多,進而穿棘表布跑出來而掉了一身羽毛。

3.再問羽絨產地及鳥種:
產地
鳥種是個很好的參考值,像鵝絨(Goose Down)的大小就比鴨絨(Waterbird Down)的大,當然也就保暖一點囉。

產地大部份只有2處,一處是中國,一處是歐洲。歐洲的又比大陸的羽絨來的大一點,以Mountain Hardwear使用的羽絨來說,中國產的鵝絨是7週採收,歐洲的鵝絨是21週採收,所以歐洲的鵝絨比較大又保暖點。這部份在購買時,可詢問店家,才能得到更正確的資訊。

4.最後看絨重及膨鬆度:
絨重
是填絨的總重量,絨重愈重、代表愈膨鬆、愈保暖,可是也相對的比較重一點。

膨鬆度的原則是愈膨的愈保暖,就像冬天蓋厚棉被、夏天蓋\薄棉被的道理相同,愈厚的隔間,愈能抓住身體散發的熱量,形成保暖的隔絕層。

羽絨衣的優點是輕量、保暖、高壓縮性。缺點是清洗麻煩、照顧不易、淋濕後保暖效果差,單價比較高。以上幾點提供給各位會員做選購時的參考。

其他還可以參考的要素有:隔間方式、表布是否使用防水布料…等

延伸閱讀:
Feathered Friends網頁上的原文介紹
800 Fill:
All of our down products come with a standard fill power of 750+ fill goose down. 750+ is almost the best down available on the market. For a nominal cost, you can increase the fill power to 800+ goose down. 800+ fill goose down is currently the best down available in the industry. This fill power will increase the loft of your product, which in turn increases the warmth of your product without compromising weight or pack size.

Fill Power:
How is down measured?
Down is measured for quality by volume. The formula refers to the fill power of each ounce of down by cubic inches per ounce. For 800 fill, the minimum measurement is 800 cubic inches per one ounce of down. When we label our down, we use the symbol “+” to signify that our fill typically supercedes the minimum requirements of fill power.

What is the industry standard?
Fill power is not an official measurement of down subject to any government regulation. The original fill power standard test was developed for the army, and requires equipment that no one has. A less formal standard has been accepted by down processors, manufacturers, and testing labs. It involves measurements taken of a one ounce sample of down in a glass cylinder with a weighted piston compressing the down. The test requires controlled temperature, humidity, and preparation of the sample to be to be even close to accurate. A number of tests must be made with down collected from several places in each batch, and the measurements averaged. The most reliable tests are done by certified testing labs. A processor or manufacturer's test cannot be considered accurate without lab confirmation.

Who is creating the industry standard?
Currently, the outdoor industry is working on the standard method of measuring down sanctioned by the Outdoor Industry Association (OIA) and the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM). Subcommittee F08.22 has been working together to standardize the method of how down should be conditioned and measured for fill power.
<本段原文引自
www.featheredfriends.com 版權屬Feathered Friends所有>

另可參考Western Mountaineering 說明

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